Category Archives: Traditional Stuff I Love

Wrapping Paper That’s Too Nice For Any Present

Cats at the public bath! There’s one problem with shopping at the chiyogami store in Yanaka – in a matter of  minutes, my shopping basket was stacked with ten times the number of sheets I came for, and all of them were whispering, “Frame me!” Even though the paper isn’t expensive, I knew when I gotContinueContinue reading “Wrapping Paper That’s Too Nice For Any Present”

St. Nyancat Of Matchmaking

Those lovely dangling mobiles are a favorite Girls’ Day decoration If you want to find the gf/bf of your dreams, this is the place to do it! The gods of the Imado Shrine in Asakusa are apparently better at forking over perfect mates than the yenta in Fiddler On The Roof. This shrine is alsoContinueContinue reading “St. Nyancat Of Matchmaking”

Tomb Of The Untold Stories

Here lie the funniest Japanese stories ever told. Or so they say, because when it was decided in 1941 that tales of wayward sons in the red light district, mistress mishaps and too much saké were inappropriately funny for wartime, the famous rakugo performers who buried them under this slab vowed the stories would never beContinueContinue reading “Tomb Of The Untold Stories”

Auto-Incinerate, For All Your Sacred Garbage Needs

Now you no longer have to do the heavy lifting when it comes to heaving that sacred garbage into the shrine’s designated bin! Here at the Narita Fudo-san Shrine, this conveyor belt incinerator churns year-round, ready to bear away your tired old lucky charms and exhausted household gods to be cremated in the proper way.ContinueContinue reading “Auto-Incinerate, For All Your Sacred Garbage Needs”

Swimming In The Sky

I love these. Every year on May 5, families fly koi nobori outside their houses as a sort of prayer that their sons will become like the carp that climbed the waterfall to become a dragon. These fish flags always cheer me up, but this year for some reason the public displays are particularly exuberant!ContinueContinue reading “Swimming In The Sky”

What’s With The Tiny Door?

Wow, people were totally troll-size back in the days before homogenized vitamin D milk! Check out the tiny gate in this old wall! No, wait. Then why is there an eensy-weensy gate next to the car entrance at this temple in Daimon? It was built after the war, when hamburgers and milk had already invadedContinueContinue reading “What’s With The Tiny Door?”

The Secret Garden

Behind the long, boring building mostly known for blocking views of the pagoda at Senso-ji is the secret garden of Denpo-in. Within those walls is a serene retreat used by the priests for meditation, closed to the public except for a few days each year. But if you’re in Tokyo right now, woo hoo, it’sContinueContinue reading “The Secret Garden”

Cherry Blossoms for Geeks

Which one of these traditional Japanese tenugui hand towels is not like the others? Hint: it’s the one with the poem that reads: “One of these is small, but he stubbornly heads toward his goal, The other changes direction according to how the wind is blowing…” •

What Girls’ Day Could Be Complete Without Emperor Anpanman?

Put the power of Anpanman and Melonpanna to work for you with this set of Girls’ Day dolls from the animated parallel universe where bread is king! Or emperor and empress, as the case may be. Regular Honorable Dolls set out on Girls’ Day have the power to get rid of evil spirits and spitefullyContinueContinue reading “What Girls’ Day Could Be Complete Without Emperor Anpanman?”

Funeral For A Pin

In Japan, February 8th is the day that old and broken needles are laid to rest. Anyone whose work involves sewing stuff together gathers at Awashima Shrine in Asakusa for a requiem service to thank their old needles and pins for good and faithful service. During the harikuyo memorial service, seamstresses, tailors, shoemakers, and milliners approachContinueContinue reading “Funeral For A Pin”

What The Well-Dressed God Is Wearing This Season

As I walked through the grounds of Zojo-ji Temple after watching some obligatory bean-throwing at Setsubun, I couldn’t help but notice that several of the figures of o-Jizo-sama had been gifted with quite the fashionable winter outfits! But while these displays of Jizo fashion creativity made me smile, they made me kind of sad too.ContinueContinue reading “What The Well-Dressed God Is Wearing This Season”

Out, Troll, Out! Setsubun For The Modern Age

While everyone was congratulating themselves on demon possession being at an all time low…damn! The pesky oni sneaked out and rebranded themselves! But that doesn’t mean we have to just lie back and let ourselves get trolled! Setsubun is the perfect holiday for showing those rickrollers the door. Here’s how: Chances are, you have aContinueContinue reading “Out, Troll, Out! Setsubun For The Modern Age”

Garbage Police Of The Gods

Don’t even think of tossing your Daruma figures, dolls or stuffed animals in the Divine Trash Bin! The very existence of this sign on the collection point outside the Meiji Shrine suggests there’s a major issue with people chronically flinging the Wrong Sort Of Stuff into the sacred  New Year’s bonfires: grubby Pikachus, dolls that haveContinueContinue reading “Garbage Police Of The Gods”

The Leaves Are Nice, But It’s All About The Sticky Rice Balls

Yeah, yeah, I know – leaves glowing in autumnal splendor, fall evening clear and crisp, moon shining bright, pond like a mirror, and the photos are sure to wow the folks back home. But let’s go bottom line: it’s really all about the miso dango. I’ve waited ALL YEAR for the Rikugi-en garden in Komagome toContinueContinue reading “The Leaves Are Nice, But It’s All About The Sticky Rice Balls”

In My Next Life, I Definitely Want To Come Back As A Shinto God

Seriously, which would you rather have? Long-faced celibate guys in brown robes or strapping Japanese dudes in fundoshi (see above)? It’s fall festival season here in Japan right now, and it’s the duty of every neighborhood to take the local gods out and show them a good time. Fortunately, Shinto gods do not go inContinueContinue reading “In My Next Life, I Definitely Want To Come Back As A Shinto God”

Sit Down Stand Up

One day last fall, as I was walking through Yoyogi Park on my way to fall off the slackline, I saw this guy standing by a tree in a vaguely medieval-looking costume. In America I’d have hustled by, careful to make ZERO eye contact, sure he was either a member of a rabidly proselytizing religious cultContinueContinue reading “Sit Down Stand Up”

Air Conditioned Pillow

You know how when it’s really hot at night, your pillow gets all roasty and makes your head feel even hotter? Well, the day I saw these old-fashioned pillows at a little store near the Nezu Shrine, it was already hitting a toasty 26 degrees C, and I suddenly appreciated the genius of this traditionalContinueContinue reading “Air Conditioned Pillow”

Acid Washed…Kimono?

I saw this display at Matsuya Ginza and found myself wondering just what sort of occasion calls for the kimono equivalent of faded True Religions? Ultimate frisbee with the empress? Kabuki live at the Budokan? Haiku slam? If you’d like to visit the Ginza area the next time you’re in Tokyo, visit my website, The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had.ContinueContinue reading “Acid Washed…Kimono?”

Buddha’s Footprints

Six hundred years before anyone started carving those serene images of the Buddha we all know so well, followers worshipped his footprints. This pair is at the Kuhonbutsu temple. For some reason, I just love the idea that the object of worship doesn’t represent the Buddha himself or the ultimate destination. It honors his wayContinueContinue reading “Buddha’s Footprints”

Just When You Think It’s Safe To Ditch The Muffler…

Yep, if the plum trees are blooming, that means a giant dump of snow is just around the corner. This particular dashing of spring hopes comes with such clocklike regularity in Japan that haiku masters use “plum blossom” when they’re actually talking about surviving life’s more bitter lessons. •

Time For Your Sand Bath

Forget the bubbles and the aromatherapy oil – there’s nothing like a nice hot sand bath to put you back in fighting form! Like the sign says, “It feels really great when the heat penetrates to every corner of your body and you sweat a lot.” Southern Kyushu is famous for sunaburo, where hot springs seep upContinueContinue reading “Time For Your Sand Bath”

Big Red Underwear

This store is called Red Underpants, and as you can see, we’re not talking lacy thongs, here. It’s in Sugamo, a neighborhood that caters to the post-retirement crowd. Wearing red after you turn 60 is considered auspicious here in Japan, and thanks to this shop, no matter what size or shape you are, if you’reContinueContinue reading “Big Red Underwear”

Diabolically Simple Pest Control

See the little straw mats wrapped around the trunks of these trees? They aren’t to keep the pines from catching cold, they’re old-fashioned pesticide! In the wintertime, insects crawl down from the branches and burrow into the temptingly warm straw mats, which are wrapped tightly at the bottom and loosely at the top.  Congratulating themselvesContinueContinue reading “Diabolically Simple Pest Control”

Party Bodhisattva

Just because you’re a bodhisattva and charged with the un-small task of looking after children and travelers doesn’t mean you never get to kick off your sandals and party. This O-Jizo-sama at Zōjōji temple is ready to blow out the candles on his birthday cake (although he might need help, considering there would be over 1500 ofContinueContinue reading “Party Bodhisattva”

Industrial-Strength Exorcism in Three Easy Steps

Today, in honor of Setsubun, allow me to divulge the time-honored Japanese method for getting rid of all your demons! 1: First, you need beans Soybeans. Roasted ones. These are for throwing at the oldest male member of your family, who will be wearing a demon mask for the occasion. The demon must be peltedContinueContinue reading “Industrial-Strength Exorcism in Three Easy Steps”

Steel-Toed Construction Slippers

Okay, I was kidding about the steel toes, but not about the slippers. This is a construction site I passed today in Hiroo. Not taking off your shoes when you enter someone’s house here feels as weird as not taking off your clothes before you step in the shower, and that even goes for constructionContinueContinue reading “Steel-Toed Construction Slippers”

Battle of the Titans

Before the match begins, the wrestlers parade into the ring and perform a ritual salute. Yesterday I was invited to watch Day 14 of the January sumo tournament from my friend Mitsuko’s box, which was so close to the ring we could see the expressions on the wrestlers’ faces but not so close that 400 pounds ofContinueContinue reading “Battle of the Titans”

The World’s Tiniest Forest

And the most convenient! If you owned this little grove, you wouldn’t have to take countless trains and buses to enjoy some natural splendor because you could just keep it in your room. I was wandering around the other day, waiting for my boots to be repaired at the Matsuya Ginza store and I chanced uponContinueContinue reading “The World’s Tiniest Forest”

Coming-Of-Age in the New Age

On Tuesday this lovely maiden in traditional dress undoubtedly went back to looking like the girl in the beanie, but Monday was Coming-Of-Age Day here in Japan, and even though kimono wearing has pretty much disappeared at other times of year, the shrines were packed with 20-year-old girls in all the trimmings. One of the reasonsContinueContinue reading “Coming-Of-Age in the New Age”

Celebrating New Year’s, Japanese Style

When I made my hatsumōde (first shrine visit of the year) to the Nezu Shrine this morning, it did not disappoint. New Year’s is observed with all kinds of traditions in Japan, but none were more entertaining than this troupe of beautiful women taiko drummers. They make it look easy, but taiko drumming is a workout thatContinueContinue reading “Celebrating New Year’s, Japanese Style”

I Would Not Want To Be That Rice

It wouldn’t be New Years in Japan without pounding down a stomach-full of mochi, and who better to bludgeon the rice into sticky submission than a cadre of sumo wrestlers? Today I watched as six mighty sumo-sans took turns wielding the mallet and flipping the doughy mass so no grain escaped the hammer of doom. ThisContinueContinue reading “I Would Not Want To Be That Rice”

Little Blobs of Heaven on a Stick

On the last night that the fall leaves were illuminated at Rikugi-en, we stumbled across the mitarashi dango stand. In a little hut beneath the maple trees, this man and his wife were dishing up skewers of rice cakes, roasted over charcoal and slathered with miso  sauce. Sometimes mitarashi dango – the traditional balls madeContinueContinue reading “Little Blobs of Heaven on a Stick”

Mini Kimonos

A 7-year-old in her first grown-up kimono and obi. Today was the official day of Shichi-Go-San, but for weeks families have been dressing their 7-year-old girls, 5-year-old boys, and 3-year-old girls in traditional finery and taking them to shrines to wish for long life and good health. No expense is spared. The 7-year-olds have beenContinueContinue reading “Mini Kimonos”

Happy Death Anniversary

This invitation to a death anniversary arrived in yesterday’s mail. I love the idea of death anniversaries. In Japan, people don’t forget all about you after you die. One year after, they throw a party. Family and friends are invited, a plate of your favorite foods and a cup of your favorite refreshment is setContinueContinue reading “Happy Death Anniversary”

Speedboat Sushi

See my four-plate order on the red boat under the touchscreen? Conveyor belt sushi joints are a fast food fixture in Japan, but I’d never been to one that delivered the special orders on a red speedboat before. This place near my Japanese school in Takanobaba has a system: each setting is outfitted with its ownContinueContinue reading “Speedboat Sushi”

The Ur-Vending Machine

I was walking along a little back street in Tama when I came across the great grand-daddy of vending machines: this little neighborhood vegetable hutch. People leave their backyard surplus in the bins and anyone can buy it by dropping ¥100 in the slot marked “Put Money In Here.” I know that there are lots ofContinueContinue reading “The Ur-Vending Machine”

More Alike Than You Might Think

This week my friend Tomoko and I searched out a tiny vintage kimono shop in Shimo-kitazawa that was featured in Yamato Kimono-hime, the magazine from which I scanned the fabulously styled photo on the left. That article made me think differently about kimonos, and I got to thinking about how Kalico Delafay’s Dollymop designs made me think differently about a western garment that historically defined female beauty:ContinueContinue reading “More Alike Than You Might Think”

Love’s Eternal Flame

Okay, actually it’s eleven waiters bearing blazing baked Alaskas into the banquet hall at the excellent wedding I went to yesterday. At all the Japanese weddings I’ve been to, the photo op “wedding cake” is made of plaster. It’s always perfect for the picture, no messy cutting and distributing, no temptation to smash the newContinueContinue reading “Love’s Eternal Flame”