Author Archives: Jonelle Patrick

Making Nuno Textiles: The best Japanese fabric art exhibition EVER

If you have even the slightest interest in all things textile, the first thing you do after you step off the plane in Japan is make a beeline for the Nuno store. It’s a treasure trove of cutting-edge fabrics designed by Reiko Sudo, the creative mastermind (and all-around warm and generous person) who has spentContinueContinue reading “Making Nuno Textiles: The best Japanese fabric art exhibition EVER”

Alt Cherry

This spring has been hella cold and rainy, so not only did the cherry blossoms bloom a week late, everyone’s selfies in front of the pinkness feature brave smiles hunched in Seattle-worthy raingear. Which is why we need to be cheered by the pink pleasures of hanami season that don’t give a fig for theContinueContinue reading “Alt Cherry”

Eye Candy from the Tokyo Kimono Show 2024

If you think that “kimono fashion” is something that went out when samurai stopped roaming the streets, think again! Not only is modern kimono dressing alive and well, the annual Tokyo Kimono Show is where designers showcase their latest innovations. This year’s special exhibit was a rare chance to see Heian period robes (from whenContinueContinue reading “Eye Candy from the Tokyo Kimono Show 2024”

Art with a side of quirk

Tokyo Art Fair checks all the Serious International Art Exhibition boxes, but this year’s artists went above and beyond in displaying that unique Japanese mix of fabulous craftsmanship and quirky worldview. Like Tetsuya Noguchi’s spoof on famous Western general statues and portraits of wealthy worthies… “Ring and Man” and “The Light of 2024” by TetsuyaContinueContinue reading “Art with a side of quirk”

These weeping plums will make you smile

There are other reasons to come to Japan in February, but basking in the goodness of weeping plum trees in full bloom is reason enough to say TAKE MY MONEY. Nowhere are they more glorious than at Soga Bairin, a plum-growing region just a short train ride from Tokyo in Odawara. If you really wantContinueContinue reading “These weeping plums will make you smile”

A flowery splash of an exhibition at Tokyo Node

The new Tokyo Node site is attempting to bring a little life and culture to the stark and soaring new office/mall complex at Toranomon Hills, and this Mika Ninagawa exhibition at first seems hellbent on going just as extreme in the other direction. The poster for her “Eternity in a Moment” exhibition suggests it’s goingContinueContinue reading “A flowery splash of an exhibition at Tokyo Node”

Weird Japanese burger sighting: The Big Mac (and Cheese)!

It’s been a while since I spotted a Japanese burger worthy of sharing, but even I had to stop and laugh when I saw THIS: And lest you be tempted to give it points for at least being plant-based, there really is a big old burger o’ beef beating at the heart of that cheesyContinueContinue reading “Weird Japanese burger sighting: The Big Mac (and Cheese)!”

Old skool Japanese illuminations are the most beautiful of all

One of the things I love about the nighttime light displays in Japan is that they’re not “holiday lights” that become obsolete the minute Santa and his reindeer are yesterday’s news, they’re “winter illuminations” that light up the long nights from the beginning of November to the end of February. And even though Japan’s cutting-edgeContinueContinue reading “Old skool Japanese illuminations are the most beautiful of all”

Art brings light into the chilly heart of Toranomon

All the usual glowing things are joined by some unexpected guests! Gazing up at Tokyo Tower from the perpetual construction zone at street level around Toranomon Hills delivers a first glimpse of the art that’s breathing a little life into the stark and chilly office towers of Tokyo’s newest mega-office complex. Seven delightful sculptures areContinueContinue reading “Art brings light into the chilly heart of Toranomon”

In Yokohama, new year’s is lit!

If basking in the glow of a giant multifaceted cube that’s illuminated by an ever-changing light show is on your bingo card for the new year, get thee to Yokohama right now, because you’ll never see a more illuminating sight. The Yorunoyo nighttime light-up extravaganza is all along the waterfront in Yokohama through January 4,ContinueContinue reading “In Yokohama, new year’s is lit!”

Be wowed by all the mega-illumination crowd-pleasers without leaving Tokyo!

Tokyo Mega-Illumi is back! It’s got all the crowd pleasers of more remote illuminations displays but is just a two-minute walk from Ōi-keibajō-mae Tokyo Monorail station. As a veteran of scouting illuminations displays—from the in-town twinklers to the far afield—I can vouch for the fact that the Mega-Illumi designers really did pick the best ofContinueContinue reading “Be wowed by all the mega-illumination crowd-pleasers without leaving Tokyo!”

Where there be dragons

If dragons are on your fantasy bucket list, get thee to Ryōanji temple in Kyoto and feast your eyes on these beauties! From now through March 31, 2023, the legendary lizards take over Ryōanji temple in Kyoto, and they do not disappoint! Imagine having a real live dragon to bork at burglars! Or one thatContinueContinue reading “Where there be dragons”

More Halloween costumes I would regret

I’m not sure what would possess anyone to dress like a chicken on Halloween, but this is apparently such a popular idea in Japan that there’s more than one take on this dubious costume. To deepen the mystery…those red and white striped socks. • If you enjoy exploring back streets and thinking about stuff thatContinueContinue reading “More Halloween costumes I would regret”

Most baffling toilet sign yet

This post is about the obviously mysterious fish slicing prohibition, but the one on the bottom left forbidding people to steal toilet paper raises nearly as many questions. I mean, can you think of anywhere in the world where it would be news to people that it’s not A-OK to nick a public toilet roll?ContinueContinue reading “Most baffling toilet sign yet”

Jazz Age kimonos to die for

If you’re in Tokyo right now, drop what you’re doing and hightail it to this kimono exhibit at the Yayoi-Yumiji Museum! There are two floors of fabulous 1920s-1950s kimono ensembles on display, each more swoon-worthy than the last. If this museum were a shop, I’d want to buy them ALL! The unifying theme of thisContinueContinue reading “Jazz Age kimonos to die for”

Minoru Nomata: Paintings of an achingly lovely apocalypse

In this fabulous Minoru Nomata restrospective, the paintings in the very first room are already asking the questions that only grow more pointed and subtle over the course of his career… Building or landscape? “Land-Escape 1” 1992 Construction or destruction? “Nowhere-1” 1993 Past or future? “Land-Escape 12” 1992 And then you look closer, and wonderContinueContinue reading “Minoru Nomata: Paintings of an achingly lovely apocalypse”

Please don’t pee on the artifact

It’s not unusual to find some small traditional remnant of the once-grand Japanese house that used to occupy insanely valuable land that’s now home to a multi-story Tokyo apartment building, but I was still delighted to see this lovely, artfully-gnarled bashira doorpost holding up a portico in the back streets near the Nezu Museum. NotContinueContinue reading “Please don’t pee on the artifact”

All Smoking, All The Time

These days, most neighborhoods are slathered with signs like this, banning smoking just about everywhere—on the street, at the train station and inside all offices/restaurants*—but there are few militantly defiant hold-outs, like this coffee shop I discovered yesterday in Ginza: Welcome to the Ranzu, a step back in time to when men wore bowler hats,ContinueContinue reading “All Smoking, All The Time”

Roppongi Art Night Returns!

“White Wings” by Close-Act Theater (Netherlands) Originally conceived as art from all over the world that goes on all night long, Roppongi Art Night returned for the first time in four years with a small—but choice!—fanfare of art and performances. The show-stealer was the “White Wings” production by a troupe from the Netherlands, whose divaContinueContinue reading “Roppongi Art Night Returns!”

Japan’s most iconic sweets, but make them Italian

What fresh hell is this international mash-up? The most iconic Japanese sweets stuffed with cherry tomatoes and basil? Next they’ll be trying to sell us tomato-basil flavored donuts… • If you could use more weird food combinations in your life… •

TeamLab’s magical rainbow acorn forest

The permanent TeamLab installation at Higashi-Tokorozawa’s Musashino Woods Park features the exact same mildly-interesting, mirrored, schmoo-shaped things they have at TeamLab Planets… …but at night they will Cinderella your socks off! These mirrored “acorns” glow from within, but also reflect the colors of the lit-up foliage around them. Here’s the same view a few secondsContinueContinue reading “TeamLab’s magical rainbow acorn forest”

Cats in Ukiyo-e: The best woodblock print show ever

If we were playing my favorite museum game—the one where we admit we’d pass on that famous piece of art if we saw it at a garage sale for $5 and didn’t know who made it—I’d be feeling pretty good about myself at this show. You’d be hearing me say, “TAKE MY MONEY!” for everyContinueContinue reading “Cats in Ukiyo-e: The best woodblock print show ever”

The name is Bond. Jane Bond.

In this all-female, all-Japanese version of Casino Royale, everybody gets the girl. Nobody can accuse Takurazuka of pulling punches when it comes to portraying everyone’s favorite clandestine operative, and this Bond has more than Q’s gadgets up her sleeve. The eyelashes alone could slay at forty paces. • If you could use more surprising entertainmentContinueContinue reading “The name is Bond. Jane Bond.”

Where to see the best wisteria in Tokyo 2023!

You haven’t seen wisteria until you’ve ogled the giant purple vines of Tokyo. Not only is each plant astoundingly huge and lush with garlands of blooms, the streamers of flowers can be nearly a meter long! Here are my favorite places to see them in Tokyo: NISHIARAI DAISHI TEMPLE This year is the first timeContinueContinue reading “Where to see the best wisteria in Tokyo 2023!”

What the heckin’ heck kind of burger comes on a green bun?

A vegan one, of course! The most venerable of Japanese burger chains has just introduced an all-plant-based burger, and all your friends can tell you opted for the planet-saving version because it comes on a spinach-tinted bun. And if that isn’t green enough to float your inner leprechaun boat, the soy and mushroom patty isContinueContinue reading “What the heckin’ heck kind of burger comes on a green bun?”

Sakura Night Garden

For the entire month of April 2023, the glorious cherry trees of Shinjuku Gyouen National Garden are lit up in ever-changing colors, turning Tokyo’s grandest park into a springtime wonderland. I went early in the month, so the crowd was hanami-huge, but it didn’t feel crowded because the area that’s lit up is so massive.ContinueContinue reading “Sakura Night Garden”

The crazy hair art show

What does a fashion house do when they want to make an upworthy statement that doesn’t stop at the edges of the garment? They hire a hair artist like Katsuya Kamo. Kamo’s creations went so far beyond haircuts… they’re sometimes closer to taxidermy… or sculpture… or masks… or crowns. The “Kamo Head: Katsuya Kamo WorksContinueContinue reading “The crazy hair art show”

Tokyo Kimono Show: Feast your eyes on THESE beauties

The Tokyo Kimono Show returned last weekend, and the fabulous new kimono coordinations have never been more inspiring. Rows upon rows of mannequins displayed the stylish offerings of designers from all over Japan… …and they were skillfully set up so they could be appreciated from front and back Some designers took the opportunity to styleContinueContinue reading “Tokyo Kimono Show: Feast your eyes on THESE beauties”

Cherry Blossom Planets

The fabulous TeamLab Planets site gets a pink makeover for cherry blossom season! Between March 1 and April 31, instead of wading among the fish and flowers like this… …you can submerge your ankles in a sea of koi and petals like this! Like the usual immersive digital pond, the music and animation start withContinueContinue reading “Cherry Blossom Planets”

Floating flowers are taking over Japan this spring

Hanachōzu at the Gyōda Hachiman Shrine In Japan, too many flowers is just enough, especially when it comes to hanachōzu! The latest fashion for excess splendor started at shrines that fill their purifying mizu-chōzuya (“hand washing water place”) with a mix of spring blooms and colorful floating balls… Hanachōzu at Kawagoe Hachimangu …but it grewContinueContinue reading “Floating flowers are taking over Japan this spring”

Craft…Cola?

In the category of “things that should not have a ‘handcrafted’ version,” cola has got to be the headliner. This inexplicable cola concentrate was on sale at my local organic food boutique (file under “WUT?”), and the explanation on the back assures me that not only was it made from “spices procured from all overContinueContinue reading “Craft…Cola?”

Luck meets art at the most delightful Girls Day exhibit ever

Cross your fingers and rub your rabbit’s foot, because we are about to venture into an exhibit where luck meets art and, well, THIS is what might result… “Lucky Subjects and Symbols in Japanese Art” is a delightful surprise of an exhibit, not least because it sounds like the driest of academic takes on theContinueContinue reading “Luck meets art at the most delightful Girls Day exhibit ever”

Required gear for Japanese snowboard school

Yes, you get a butt pillow. And because it’s Japan, it’s a cute one! (As you can see, one future shredder has already put it to good use…) • If you could use a little more amusement in your life… •

How to grow a Japanese snow monster

Everyone who spends any time on the interwebz has seen the Snow Monsters of Zao—evergreen trees that become so enrobed in snow and ice that they stop looking like trees and start looking like something that goes bump in the night. The ads for the ski resort usually look like this: Thank you Good LuckContinueContinue reading “How to grow a Japanese snow monster”

The fourteen best places in Tokyo to see plum blossoms in bloom

The plum trees are going to be at peak bloom this weekend—here are my favorite places to see them! • YUSHIMA SHRINE This is one of the most beautiful shrines in Tokyo, and it not only has a ton of plum trees, it has a festival to celebrate them the whole month of February, withContinueContinue reading “The fourteen best places in Tokyo to see plum blossoms in bloom”

Camping J-style: Don’t forget the rice cooker

If you’re in search of a rugged outdoor experience you can regale your co-workers with at the next company drink-a-thon (but not the kind that produces tales of campfire fails, culinary deprivation or drafty tents), Japan’s got you covered! If you’re more of a back-the-tailgate-up-to-the-fire-ring kind of camper than a backcountry how-much-toilet-paper-do-I-really-need-for-a-week trekker, this traditionalContinueContinue reading “Camping J-style: Don’t forget the rice cooker”

TeamLab x Galaxy: Catch & release rare sea creatures without getting your toes wet

How do you sell a phone that will set your Japanese customers back over *cough, cough* ¥150,000 (about $1,100 USD)? Well, first, you hire TeamLab to build you a killer undersea digital environment… https://videopress.com/v/Xs0I1Hqg?resizeToParent=true&cover=true&preloadContent=metadata&useAverageColor=true then you hand visitors your want-worthiest model… and set them loose to catch and release all kinds of rare sea creatures.ContinueContinue reading “TeamLab x Galaxy: Catch & release rare sea creatures without getting your toes wet”

What ingredient do you think THIS Japanese restaurant is famous for?

Nope, not tofu. If you guessed GLUTEN, you win the prize! Wait…what? Gluten? Yes, at Fumuroya, not only is the savory, marshmallow-like goodie known as fū prepared in surprising and satisfying ways, the 9-course lunch set I ate with friends was so good, I sneaked back by myself to try it again! If this isContinueContinue reading “What ingredient do you think THIS Japanese restaurant is famous for?”

How Big Is Tokyo?

This week I was updating The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had, and I thought you might enjoy seeing how big it is compared to your city! (Scroll down to see Tokyo’s main subway line superimposed on maps of major cities all over the world.) Anyone who wants to be somewhere on time in Tokyo takesContinueContinue reading “How Big Is Tokyo?”

Santa Blasphemy returns

Don’t let the name of this Santa costume fool you—there’s nothing sacrosanct about Santa when it comes to dressing up like the jolly old elf in Japan! Even the most stalwart child might hesitate before climbing into the lap of a Holy Basic Santa who looks like he might demand a confession before hearing aboutContinueContinue reading “Santa Blasphemy returns”

Let’s walk out to Miyajima’s famous floating gate!

Before now, you’d have to be able to walk on water to see Miyajima’s famous “floating torii gate” up close and personal, but thanks to a brief window of lingering construction access, the only superpower we mere mortals need is the ability to stand in line! For the past three years, this World Heritage siteContinueContinue reading “Let’s walk out to Miyajima’s famous floating gate!”

Epic Japanese Cake Show: Part 1

No Japanese apartment comes equipped with an oven. That shocked me, until I stopped to think about it, and realized not a single traditional Japanese dish requires baking. Which doesn’t keep them from being some of the most skilled bakers in the world. Like the fiber artists of the Tokyo International Quilt Festival, the pastryContinueContinue reading “Epic Japanese Cake Show: Part 1”

Yes, all these origami cranes were folded from ONE sheet of paper

Paula Pietranera, “Stillness in Movement” I don’t know about you, but I have to lie down and rest after wrestling one square of origami paper into a crane, let alone folding hundreds, none bigger than a quarter and all connected because they’re made from a single sheet of paper! What sorcery is this? (Paula Pietranera,ContinueContinue reading “Yes, all these origami cranes were folded from ONE sheet of paper”

This Does Not Make Me Want To Eat That Cheesecake

From the Tokyo bakery that has been indicted for misusing the Universal Garnish on previous occasions comes this inexplicable frippery. I had to press my nose right up against the glass to figure out that this cheesecake is decorated with… …shriveled grapes and pine needles? •

Art Aquarium Lives!

If Japan had a shrine dedicated to goldfish, the new Art Aquarium Museum would be it. It’s fitting that as you enter the new, permanent home of my favorite summer event, you really feel like you’re stepping into another dimension, a world where goldfish are elevated to art… Countless varieties of fancy fish are displayedContinueContinue reading “Art Aquarium Lives!”