The Dish-Breaking Shrine

This spring, the ever-impish kami-sama apparently thought I was in need of some sort of life lesson. Because every time I set out with a well-planned, perfectly-timed plan, it was like this: “You know that amazing thing you traveled three hours on four trains to see? Well, forget it. You’re not going to see it. InsteadContinueContinue reading “The Dish-Breaking Shrine”

Endless Fields Of Blue

Every once in a while you discover a place where the photos that made you run to the nearest station and jump on godzilla-knows-how-many-trains to get there did not lie. Not even a little bit. Those pictures of hills swathed in an unbroken carpet of blue flowers at Hitachi Seaside Park? 100% REAL. Then there was this rōnin… And it’sContinueContinue reading “Endless Fields Of Blue”

Where To See The Most Amazing Azaleas In Tokyo

From mid-April to mid-May, it seems like there are bright pink bushes whipping by the train window everywhere you go in Tokyo, but there are a few special places that just beg you to take the kind of snaps that make everyone scream “I want to go to there!” Here are my favorite places to take azaleaContinueContinue reading “Where To See The Most Amazing Azaleas In Tokyo”

Where To See The Most Beautiful Wisteria In Tokyo

You haven’t seen wisteria until you’ve ogled the giant purple vines of Tokyo. Not only is each plant astoundingly huge and lush with garlands of blooms, the streamers of flowers can be nearly a meter long! Here are my favorite places to see them in Tokyo: • NISHIARAI DAISHI TEMPLE This year is the firstContinueContinue reading “Where To See The Most Beautiful Wisteria In Tokyo”

Cherry Blossom Illuminations

Did you even have to ask? It’s not enough that famous cherry blossom spots are lit up at night, now Tokyo has electric cherry blossom extravaganzas that rival the ever-more-crazy holiday light shows! • TOKYO MIDTOWN in Roppongi Tokyo Midtown’s promenade of cherry trees is not only lit up in pink… There’s an artful mix of pink gels on the spotlights, so theseContinueContinue reading “Cherry Blossom Illuminations”

Where To Take The Best Cherry Blossom Photos In Tokyo

You know those “Top Places To See Cherry Blossoms In Tokyo” websites that always tell you to go to Ueno Park? Well, this is how Ueno Park actually looks during cherry blossom season: Lots of great flowering trees, not such great photos. The places on those lists do deliver the cherry blossoms, but if you want photos thatContinueContinue reading “Where To Take The Best Cherry Blossom Photos In Tokyo”

Tamao Shigemune: Modern Kimonos That’ll Knock Your Socks Off

Paris model photos all by the ultra-talented Tsubomi Photo Studio So you think you can’t rock a kimono because you’re not Japanese? Think again! Tamao Shigemune designs modern versions of traditional Japanese women’s wear with a distinctly Parisian twist, and guess what? You can see them (and try her new summer collection on!) right now in Tokyo, through Sunday MarchContinueContinue reading “Tamao Shigemune: Modern Kimonos That’ll Knock Your Socks Off”

Lost In A Forest Of Blooming Plum Trees

This is just the entry forest Yesterday I got to stumble around doing a 360˚ gawk in a forest of plum trees wearing all their favorite clothes at once. Everywhere you look, tunnels and tunnels of plum goodness Kairakuen Garden in Mito was planted by a genius of a daimyo who totally got that too much of a good thing is never enough. 2,490 fluffy-branched trees later, IContinueContinue reading “Lost In A Forest Of Blooming Plum Trees”

Girls’ Day Dolls…On Steroids

There’s a little town about two hours from Tokyo called Katsuura, where one a year, dolls rule. 12,000 of them, to be exact. Just for comparison, this is about the most extravagant Girls’ Day display I’d seen before going to Katsuura. Most families just put out the emperor and empress, but the ones who areContinueContinue reading “Girls’ Day Dolls…On Steroids”

Plum Blossom Countdown

All of February (and a little of March) is the best time to see fluffy pink and white and red beauties bursting like popcorn all over Tokyo. Here are the best places to see them, in order of when they bloom: Note: These photos were all taken from 2014-2016, so depending on how warm or coldContinueContinue reading “Plum Blossom Countdown”

Rainbow Icicle Wonderland

On the way to the Werewolf Shrine in remote Chichibu, locals have enterprisingly turned the frozen waterfalls that spangle the cliffs and caves alongside the Arakawa River into a winter wonderland! First of all, before the sun goes down and the lights go up, check out the tiny photographer to get a sense of the size ofContinueContinue reading “Rainbow Icicle Wonderland”

Fox Village Videos!

Here’s what it’s like to visit Fox Village in the snow, when the foxes are at their fattest & fluffiest! I have to confess, when it comes to which animals would get to sit in business class in my ark, it’s all about the tails. Foxes, of course, have the most magnificent fruffy tails in all of the animalContinueContinue reading “Fox Village Videos!”

At The Crazy Cat Parade

I have to admit, I was powerless to resist going to a thing where hundreds of people dressed more or less as cats pranced down the street, some of them raucously performing musical numbers in which “nyan nyan nyan” replaced all the lyrics. The Bake Neko Parade gives everyone and their granny an excuse to dress up every October near KagurazakaContinueContinue reading “At The Crazy Cat Parade”

A Prickly Day At The Hedgehog Cafe

Turn down the volume on your squee-meter, unless you want to lose a little more of your hearing! Check out the little prickle monsters you can snuggle up with at Tokyo’s new Hedgehog Cafe… Okay, snuggle might not be quite the right word. As you can see, they’re not exactly covered in fluff The reason it’s called theContinueContinue reading “A Prickly Day At The Hedgehog Cafe”

Where To See Huge Fields Of Cosmos In Tokyo

If you think that vast fields of blooming wildflowers are something you won’t find in Tokyo…think again! From mid-September to mid-October every year, the lowly cosmos is elevated to extravaganza status at two different gardens, blossoming in snapworthy profusion for about four weeks. • SHOWA KINEN PARK – Tachikawa The first ones to bloom (mid-September to mid-October) in theContinueContinue reading “Where To See Huge Fields Of Cosmos In Tokyo”

The Magical Red Forest

If it happens to be raining when you are invited to walk through a magical forest carpeted with five million blooming amaryllis, do not say no. Because this. If you’re in Tokyo at the end of September and would like to see the higanbana in bloom, get thee on the train to Koma Station (it takes aboutContinueContinue reading “The Magical Red Forest”

Goldfish, Goldfish, Everywhere

Although by now we’re all sort of feeling like “don’t let the door hit you on the way out, you miserably hot & humid Japanese summer,” some of the various celebrations of goldfish are lingering on in a most delightful way until the end of September. Here they are! ART AQUARIUM This summer is the 10th anniversary ofContinueContinue reading “Goldfish, Goldfish, Everywhere”

Potatosaurus Rex

A few days ago I was climbing the escalators in the hated Skytree* in search of the Sumidagawa Aquarium, and was stopped in my tracks by this. An exhibition of fake food art! Best. Idea. Ever. bwahahahaha EAT ALL THE CHIPS (This extinct denizen of the Junk Food Era was made by artist Katsutoshi Mutō) I admit, this makes me want meContinueContinue reading “Potatosaurus Rex”

Wading Through A Sea Of Stars & Flowers

It was the last day of the DMM Planets attraction out in Odaiba today, but if you missed your chance to roll up your pants & wade around in a cloud-like sea of flowers and goldfish with a kerbillion and a half other people, here’s what it was like: My favorite part of the thing, though, was the CrystalContinueContinue reading “Wading Through A Sea Of Stars & Flowers”

The Waterfall Made Of Light

Summer illuminations at Tokyo Midtown delivering all the goodness! This waterfall made of animated LEDs is conveniently paired with a pop-up mojito stand, so you can ooh and ah at the light-up while getting lit up yourself. Which would you rather do: Enjoy the serenity of a cascading river while sipping a cocktail? Or swat mosquitoes while smearing on blister cream after a pesky hike? Naturally,ContinueContinue reading “The Waterfall Made Of Light”

St. Bondage

One painfully, BEASTLY hot day, I was scuttling along from shade puddle to shade puddle on my way back to Kanamachi Station, and I happened to glance through the gate of a random temple I was passing. Inside, I spotted this! This saint had to have some obscure specialty, like the Wart Curing Jizo or the Scrub Brush Shrine, andContinueContinue reading “St. Bondage”

Which One Is The REAL Goldfish?

Not easy, is it? Okay, I’ll give you a hint: this one doesn’t need to be fed. The lovely specimen in the wooden saké box is a painting of a goldfish. Actually, it’s about a gazillion paintings of a goldfish. Artist Riusuke Fukahori builds these 3-D wonders by pouring a thin layer of clear resin, painting a slice of goldfish,ContinueContinue reading “Which One Is The REAL Goldfish?”

Where To See The Most Gorgeous Peonies In Tokyo

If you’ve never walked among peonies that stand shoulder-high, with flowers as big as your head, get thee to these Tokyo gardens right now and prepare to be amazed! NISHIARAI-DAISHI TEMPLE This garden never disappoints. As you can see, it’s not small! Each bush is pretty much more beautiful than the last. I recommend recording yourselfContinueContinue reading “Where To See The Most Gorgeous Peonies In Tokyo”

The Best Dressed Nude Statue In All Of Tokyo

Sometimes you’re trudging home and dreading getting on a crowded train, then you find THIS! How great is it that they have a peeing boy statue smack in the middle of the train platform at the otherwise grim Hamamatsucho Station? As if that weren’t cheering enough, for over fifteen years this bronze nude taking a perpetual whizz has been dressedContinueContinue reading “The Best Dressed Nude Statue In All Of Tokyo”

The Best Cherry Blossom Spots In Tokyo – With Maps!

Cherry blossoms at the Imperial Palace Chidorigafuchi Moat MAP TO ALL First of all, what kind of cherry blossoms do you want to see? They bloom in four waves of different varieties, starting in mid-March with the dark pink kanzakura… Early-blooming cherries at Shinjuku Gyō-en then the weeping varieties bloom from mid-March to the end ofContinueContinue reading “The Best Cherry Blossom Spots In Tokyo – With Maps!”

Get Your Very Own 3D Selfie

The idea of being able to get a Barbie-sized clone of yourself has been an internet tease for so long that I almost walked past the studio displaying these super lifelike figures that had obviously been modeled on real people. Surely there would be the usual fine print: “GET A PERFECT PINT-SIZED REPLICA OF YOURSELF (for only $100,000,000,000)” or “NOWContinueContinue reading “Get Your Very Own 3D Selfie”

Fox Village: Even Better With Snow On Top!

I thought I’d died and gone to heaven when I finally made it to Zao Fox Village last spring, but it’s a good thing I didn’t actually shuffle off this mortal coil due to fox-induced bliss, because then I would have missed seeing all these fluffy vixen in the SNOW! In the winter, they’re at their fattest and furriest! With tails set toContinueContinue reading “Fox Village: Even Better With Snow On Top!”

Setagaya Boroichi: The Grand Pooh-bah Of All Flea Markets

I’d heard about the Boroichi Flea Market for ages, but never made it to one until today. Yikes, it filled every street and alleyway for BLOCKS! In classic flea market style, there was loads of crap studded liberally with actual finds, but I think I can pretty much guarantee that somewhere within this maze you can satisfy your burning desire for…ContinueContinue reading “Setagaya Boroichi: The Grand Pooh-bah Of All Flea Markets”

Flowers By Naked

(I put together this one-minute video because seriously, stills just couldn’t capture how awesome this show is YOU WILL NOT BE SORRY) The name of this exhibition only makes sense if you recognize the name of the digital artists known as Naked, who are the hottest projection-mapping badasses in Tokyo right now. And HOO BOY they did not disappoint! I’m always ready toContinueContinue reading “Flowers By Naked”

Yomiuriland Illuminations

By the time I took four trains and a bus to the gates of the aging amusement park Yomiuri Land, I had already decided that no illuminations could possibly be worth the schlep. Good thing I was SO WRONG! As you can see, no surface in the entire park was spared, and Scrooge was definitely not consulted.ContinueContinue reading “Yomiuriland Illuminations”

Midnight Fox Parade

Middle school boys in foxface and golden skirt-pants carrying gigantic fox heads through the streets of Tokyo? Can you think of a better way to ring in the new year? Every December 31st at midnight, the good citizens of Oji gather at the local inari shrine to show the furry-tailed messengers of the gods a good time.ContinueContinue reading “Midnight Fox Parade”

The Best Tokyo Winter Illuminations 2015

Are you ready once again to have holiday lights spoiled for-e-ver by the insanely great Tokyo Illuminations? This year, the old favorites do not disappoint, but there are a couple of new contenders amid the light-up extravaganzas going on right now in Tokyo! Feast your eyes on… • TOKYO DOME CITY This dome puts on an everchanging light showContinueContinue reading “The Best Tokyo Winter Illuminations 2015”

Make Your Own Plastic Food…At Home!

Okay, as the self-diagnosed Queen of Fail when it comes to Japanese crafts (remember the “rabbit” from the animal lollipops workshop?), I was pretty sure that any fake food I made without the experts at the Make Your Own Plastic Food Workshop would look more like something from the compost bin than a reputable kitchen. But so many people told me they were dyingContinueContinue reading “Make Your Own Plastic Food…At Home!”

Let’s Go To Bunny Island!

What part of ALL THE SNACKS don’t you understand? If your squee-meter isn’t totally burnt out after Fox Village, it certainly will be, after we check out BUNNY ISLAND! Okunoshima isn’t easy to get to, but that’s why there’s an entire chunk of land off the coast of Japan where adorable bunnies run free, without fear of being eaten (or, obviously, havingContinueContinue reading “Let’s Go To Bunny Island!”

How To Make The Most Beautiful Lollipops In The World

One of the most beautiful lollipops in the world. OK, I admit, I did not make this lollipop. I went to the workshop taught by the artist who made it, but the thing I ended up making did not remotely, remotely, REMOTELY resemble this lollipop. First of all – to be fair – we weren’t supposed to be making goldfishContinueContinue reading “How To Make The Most Beautiful Lollipops In The World”

How To Go To Zao Fox Village

Jaded denizen of the interwebz that I am, there’s not much that makes me leap out of my chair and scream “WANT!” but when I first saw a picture taken at Zao Fox Village, I had to drop everything and figure out a way to get there. Hello, human! It’s far from Tokyo – five hours byContinueContinue reading “How To Go To Zao Fox Village”

Where To See The Best Iris Gardens In Tokyo

Fields of riotously blooming Japanese iris? Yes, please! The iris gardens in central Tokyo are small, but choice; the ones in the outskirts are vast and exuberant and well worth a pilgrimage! Here are the best places in and around Tokyo to see the Japanese iris extravaganzas of your dreams: HORIKIRI IRIS GARDEN in Horikiri-shobuen TheContinueContinue reading “Where To See The Best Iris Gardens In Tokyo”

Partying With The Gods

When winter finally lets go of Tokyo and the days start to get long and warm, it’s time to take the local deities out and show them a good time! But the kami-sama can’t just wedge onto the train like the rest of us – they have to be taken around in style while being reminded of theContinueContinue reading “Partying With The Gods”

Tokyo Design Festa 2015: Seriously, You Can’t Make This Stuff Up

For all your Cat Butt Pincushion needs. Last weekend, Tokyo’s Design Festa delivered a level of craziness so far beyond words that once again, I’m just going to have to show you pictures. First, from the double rainbow world of animal goods… Think you can escape those pesky felines by locking yourself in the bathroom? Think again. The Cat TubContinueContinue reading “Tokyo Design Festa 2015: Seriously, You Can’t Make This Stuff Up”

Vast Carpets Of Lawn Cherries!

Outside of Japan, nobody has heard of shibazakura, but they should! Check out the rolling hills covered with pink flowers that bloom in the middle of May! (They’re actually a variety of phlox, so I’m guessing the “sakura” part of the name is a feeble-ish attempt to ride the coattails of Japan’s more famous flower season, but they DO deliverContinueContinue reading “Vast Carpets Of Lawn Cherries!”

Real Life Tokyo Drift

The roar of unmufflered engines! The smell of burning rubber! The gratuitously skimpy costumes of booth babes! Yes, this weekend is the Gran Turismo D1 Professional Drifting Grand Prix, and it does not disappoint! Coming around the first curve… …drifting into the next one… …screeching into the turn There are two rounds in each heat, on aContinueContinue reading “Real Life Tokyo Drift”

The Best SECRET Cherry Blossom Spots In Tokyo!

Cherry blossoms and crowds go together like long bathroom lines and hanami parties, but at these secret Tokyo spots, you can enjoy the pinkness without getting trampled, even at peak season! Here are my favorite places: • ARK HILLS New for 2019! The Ark Hills development in Roppongi is nothing to write home about…until you see theContinueContinue reading “The Best SECRET Cherry Blossom Spots In Tokyo!”

Sexy Red Undies Opposite Day

So, there’s this street in Tokyo I’ve written about before that’s known as the “Grandma & Grandpa’s Harajuku” because it’s where all the oldsters go to stock up on the latest elderly comforts and fashions. My favorite store on Koshinzuka Street is the “Red Underpants” shop, which specializes in many, many, MANY styles of lucky red underwearContinueContinue reading “Sexy Red Undies Opposite Day”

Godzilla In Legoland

Charizilla gives his big green cousin a helping hand at Tokyo Legoland. The Grand Imperial Empire Of Lego obviously isn’t only in Japan, but an especially awesome part of it is! Welcome to Tokyo Legoland, where Godzilla is king, and Pokemons rule! From now on, I’m only going to weigh myself in Legos. Sprawling model TokyoContinueContinue reading “Godzilla In Legoland”

How To Walk Across The Rainbow Bridge

This has to be the most gorgeous walk in Tokyo. If you start at twilight, you can see the entire Tokyo waterfront slowly light up like the best holiday light show ever! Here’s how I do it: I get off the train at Tamachi station and go out the main exit. There’s about a five minute walk, across two canals, untilContinueContinue reading “How To Walk Across The Rainbow Bridge”

Get Your Wallet Blessed By Fire & Drums

There’s nothing like a good, old-fashioned fire ceremony to get your year off to a blazing start! Flaming prayer sticks, drums being pounded by ultra-buff young priests, the chance to get your wallet blessed – what’s not to like? The fire ceremony at the Fukugawa Fudo temple in Monzen Nakacho did not disappoint! If your experience with BuddhismContinueContinue reading “Get Your Wallet Blessed By Fire & Drums”

The Mother Of All Illuminations Theme Parks

When I was a kid, every year in mid-December we’d all pile into the car and drive around to find the house with the most over-the-top Xmas decorations. No surprise, I am a total, total sucker for Xmas lights. But I never saw anything that even came close to the amazing, blazing Illuminations displays that Tokyo neighborhoods started puttingContinueContinue reading “The Mother Of All Illuminations Theme Parks”

Where To See The Best Fall Leaves In Tokyo

I hope you’re all rested up from our cherry blossom death march last spring, because it’s time to strap on your camera and a couple of extra batteries to hunt down the best autumn leaves in Tokyo! Here are my picks, from momiji season through ginkgo: Arranged from earliest to latest: SHOWA KINEN PARK There areContinueContinue reading “Where To See The Best Fall Leaves In Tokyo”

Where To See The Best Chrysanthemums In Tokyo

These eye-popping exhibitions will change your opinion of those humble fall flowers forever! Here’s where to see the best chrysanthemums in Tokyo: • JINDAI BOTANICAL GARDEN It’s worth the trip out to Chofu, just to see the cartload of fox tails But they also have the full complement of pagodas, Elvis pompadours, perfect specimens of manyContinueContinue reading “Where To See The Best Chrysanthemums In Tokyo”

Tokyo Design Festa: Zombie Matryoshika & More

You can do this with FELT?! If you’re in Tokyo, get thee to Design Festa RIGHT NOW! It’s on through Sunday the 9th, out in Odaiba at Big Sight. You definitely don’t want to miss seeing (and buying!): Handpainted zombie matryoshka dolls. Elfin anime-style figures, mind-bogglingly crafted from felt. Eyeball clasp purses, leaking a littleContinueContinue reading “Tokyo Design Festa: Zombie Matryoshika & More”