These eye-popping exhibitions will change your opinion of these humble fall flowers forever! Whether they’re trained into fantastical shapes or merely the most perfect example of their kind, here’s where to see the best chrysanthemums in Tokyo:
•
It’s worth the trip out to Chofu, just to see this cartload of fox tails
But they also have the full complement of pagodas, Elvis pompadours, perfect specimens, and a unique bonsai chrysanthemum category. Why they’re trained into cascades of blooms in the shape of Shizuoka Prefecture is one of the great mysteries of Japan.
Dates: October 25 – November 17th (2019)
Admission: Adults: ¥500, Children: ¥250
•
HIBIYA PARK
The Hibiya Park competition features every kind of chrysanthemum you can imagine, but the thing not to miss here are the bonsai categories:
These Xmas-tree-shaped ones come in every color
But there are lots of other styles too, including ones that have been trained to look like trees clinging to rustic cliff faces…
And miniature landscapes, where chrysanthemums are king
Of course, they have the usual perfect examples of unusual types and colors
…including these, which are the tallest chrysanthemums I’ve ever seen (horticulturally inclined uncles for scale).
Dates: November 1-17 (2019)
Admission: Free
•
Every year, Yushima Tenjin Shrine serves up a new diorama of life-sized historical figures, made from living chrysanthemums.
The Thousand Bloom Chrysanthemum competition always draws impressive entries.
This style requires the grower to train the plant into three stalks of exactly the same height, then coax three perfect flowers to bloom at the exact same time.
The best Elvis bouffants in town.
The shrine bridge, with its fancy on.
Dates: November 1-23
Admission: Free
•
You can see this Thousand Bloom Chrysanthemum for free outside the front gate, but there’s lots more chrysanthemum goodness inside!
They’d be amazing enough if they were just giant living bouquets of perfect flowers all blooming at once, but the truly astounding thing is that each of these is ONE PLANT
I know you don’t believe me, so I took a picture of one from underneath. The single stem is that one highlighted in the middle – the stem-like things on the corners are the metal supports for the training trellis
Of course Shinjuku Gyōen has magnificent Elvis bouffants, in every shape and color…
and acres of fluffball perfection…
as well as some technically challenging styles, like these. You might be tempted to walk right past this less-spectacular exhibition, but think about it: how do you get an unruly shrub to produce exactly 25 flowers, blooming on straight stems in a perfect circle, angled for ideal viewing pleasure? Not one droopy petal. Not one flawed leaf.
But one of the things I like best about the chrysanthemums at Shinjuku Gyōen is that some displays that are part of the landscape, like this beauty set along my favorite strolling path
If you look closely, you’ll see that they’ve chosen subtly different colors of flowers to enhance the sense of depth
And this one perking up the Japanese garden features varieties that have a mix of purple and gold in their petals
Admission: ¥500
Dates: November 1-15 (2019)
•
KAMEIDO TENJIN SHRINE
In addition to the bouffants, balls and prize specimens, the Kameido Shrine features this model of Skytree, with the real thing helpfully standing around for comparison in the background
It also has some nice displays that make great insta-backdrops
Dates: October 26 – November 24 (2019)
Admission: Free
•
What the Meiji Shrine chrysanthemums lack in artistic innovation, they make up in perfection. I dare the gods to find any flaw at all in those white ones.
Dates: October 27 – November 23 (2019)
Admission: Free
•
Wouldn’t you rather be in Japan right now?
“…a complete immersion in a world of beauty, drama, secrets, and betrayals.”
—Kim Hays, author of the Polizei Bern series
•
Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Japan, produces the monthly e-magazine Japanagram, and blogs at Only In Japan and The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had
Only In Japan 
Is that Oda Nobunaga? He’s never looked dandier.
Whoa, got it in one! It IS Oda Nobunaga! Wonder what he’d think if he came back and saw himself as a chrysanthemum effigy?