I hope you’re all rested up from our cherry blossom death march last spring, because it’s time to strap on your camera and a couple of extra batteries to hunt down the best autumn leaves in Tokyo! Here are my picks, from momiji season through ginkgo:
Arranged from earliest to latest:
SHOWA KINEN PARK
There are many different kinds of momiji in the Japanese garden at Showa Kinen Park, showing off different shades of yellow, orange and red at the same time.
The Japanese maples turn color early in the Japanese garden at Showa Kinen. Look for them in early November.
This gorgeous promenade of ginkgo trees hits its peak after the Japanese maples, around mid-November.
You can walk under the twin promenades through a tunnel of gold.
Bonus attraction: There is a really choice bonsai garden within the Japanese garden walls, and this open tea room displays the most spectacular specimens.
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GOTOKUJI TEMPLE
Gotokuji’s wooden pagoda is the perfect backdrop for splendid red and gold maple leaves in mid-November. You’ll find them here earlier than in central Tokyo.
The momiji here turn very satisfying colors of red and orange.
Added bonus: There is a shrine on the temple grounds where thousands of “good luck” maneki neko cat figures have been offered to ensure success in business.
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MT. TAKAO
The maples are in full color by the end of November.
Climb the steps to the shrine all the way at the top for amazing views and leaves.
You’ll be amazed by how many different kinds of maple trees there are.
Bonus attraction: there’s a monkey park at the top of the mountain.
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ICHŌ NAMIKI
By late November, this famous boulevard is attracting thousands and thousands of camera-happy gawkers every day, but you can still enjoy the trees despite the crowds.
Ginkgo leaves at their peak, at Ichou Namiki
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YOYOGI PARK
Towering ginkgo trees are bright yellow, starting in mid-November.
At twilight, you can scuff your feet through a sea of yellow leaves.
By late November, the maples are turning orange and red.
The trees at Yoyogi Park are big – in the fall it’s a forest of yellow and red right in the middle of Tokyo!
Bonus attraction: Yoyogi Park is home to all kinds of free entertainment every Sunday afternoon, from rockabilly dancing to traditional rakugo to the local husky club dressed in manga schoolgirl uniforms.
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HIKARIGAOKA PARK
This promenade of ginkgo trees is quite majestic, and extends for several blocks in mid to late-November.
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TOKYO UNIVERSITY
Tokyo University’s gothic buildings are the perfect backdrop for a lovely line-up of ginkgo trees. They reach their golden peak in late November, and there’s never a crowd, so you can enjoy a peaceful walk under the canopy.
The entrance to Tokyo University is just outside the Todaimae subway station.
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NEZU SHRINE
Golden ginkgo trees shade the red torii gate at the Nezu Shrine, starting in mid-November.
Usually the main gate is the most colorful thing around, but the ginkgos and maples make its red lacquer and gold leaf seem pale in comparison. They’re at their best in late November.
This is my favorite shrine in Tokyo, and autumn is one of the best times to see it.
Bonus attraction: you can walk though a glowing tunnel of orange torii gates.
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KORAKU-EN GARDEN
The Japanese maples at Koraku-en Garden are like jewels in a setting of green. They’re at their peak in late November.
As you wander through the string of lovely gardens that make up Koraku-en, new blazes of color pop up to delight on every side.
Maples of every color surprise you in each of the sub-gardens.
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RIKUGI-EN GARDEN
Rikugi-en never disappoints, with its 88 views from famous waka poems.
Maple trees flame in all colors of the rainbow in late November.
Bonus attraction: From the third week in November through the first week in December, the garden is lit up at night until 9:00 for your leaf-viewing pleasure.
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SHINJUKU GYŌ-EN GARDEN
Shinjuku Gyō-en is most beautiful in early morning, when the pond reflects the changing Japanese maples and cherry trees.
As November moves into December, the garden only becomes more colorful.
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ARISUGAWA PARK
This hidden gem of a park is perfect for a stroll before stocking up on hometown essentials at the National Azabu supermarket or before heading out for a night in Nakameguro, Ebisu or Roppongi.
Trees of all colors reflect in the serene pond by mid to late-November.
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And if you know someone who’s planning a Japan trip, here are all the places I take my friends when they come to town…
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Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Japan, produces the monthly e-magazine Japanagram, and blogs at Only In Japan and The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had
Only In Japan 
Soooo…. once again thanks to the Navy I get to see Japan’s nature at its (second?) finest. 😦
Arg arg arg! Well, you’ve got four years, right? Surely you won’t ALWAYS be at sea during Leaf Season! Or maybe they’ll let you be ashore during cherry blossoms instead, which feature far more full-bodied partying. heh.
I’ve seen the schedule for the next two years aaaaaand….. I don’t remember. Maybe? Haha…