May 02


When You Look in the Mirror and Nothing Short of a Miracle Will Do…

Book a quick appointment with the Hair God! I saw this out in Sugamo, which is not too far from an actual shrine dedicated to hair, in all its many forms. Barbers, stylists, stage actors and celebs of all stripes come to Oji to pray for good hair days and get their wigs blessed. (Since men play all the roles in both kabuki and Noh drama, wig pulchritude is serious business.)

Actual shrine devoted to Good Hair Days, in Oji

And if the hair gods are totally booked, you can always go to Shimo-Kitazawa, where mysterious hair salon naming forces have also been at work:

If you’d like to visit Shimo-kitazawa the next time you’re in Tokyo, directions & maps are on my website, The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had.

Read a novel set in Tokyo

The #1 hostboy at Club Nova makes a handsome living, whispering sweet nothings in the ears of women who pay him a fortune for the privilege. But the party’s over when Tokyo Detective Kenji Nakamura is assigned to investigate the death of…read more